Portable Solar Panels

Anyone here using portable solar panels for recharging a solar “generator”? I picked up one of these so-called solar generators at a garage sale, which is really just a 12 volt jump box/power pack, with an inverter built in.

I’m happy to keep it charged up via AC for short term needs, like brief power outages, parties or picnics . I can also charge it using my gas powered generator if the power is out for a longer period. However, I’d like to have that solar recharging option.

This unit has a built in voltage regulator (controller) rated for 12 to 28 VDC. So, does this mean I can plug directly into a solar panel that is JUST a solar panel? It seems all the portable folding solar panels (in the 200W range) have their own regulators built in. Does it even matter if it is redundant?

Lastly, this unit can be used while it is charging, so I’m also wondering if I should get a pannel array with greater than 200W output. Supposedly, the EB70 will charge in the winter, from 0 to 100% in just 6 to 8 hours. Then there is overcast days where panels won’t produce the full output, so maybe I need to stack the deck with more solar wattage than I need to ensure full charging in the winter months and overcast days.

Just posting so I can follow this (I’m interested as well)

I bought some some ecoflow batteries and panels, haven’t actually run anything off them or tried charging from the panels yet.

Lithium based batteries should not be stored charged to full capacity for any length of time. they need to be stored charged between 50 and 70 % capacity. If it is going to be a while before you do anything with it, charge if under 50% or discharge until at or below 70%. LiFePo4 batteries self discharge at a relatively slow rate, so “topping them off” to storage capacity only needs done once a year. run my gas generator three times a year, so I’ll do a function check on the power bank at the same time.

1 Like

That is REALLY good to know. I’ve been looking into upgrading the cabin batteries in our RV and the solar panel on the roof keeps the lead acid batteries 100% all the time.
Guess that would be bad with lithiums

I love how they market these as “solar generators”, when all they are just jump packs with an inverter. I’d take a close look to see what the battery rating is, many of these have small batteries, and won’t give you long run times, if you’re running a decent load, like a fridge.

In most cases, you can buy a separate deep cycle battery and separate inverter/charger for a lot less, but you need to do some wiring. Hopefully you got a good deal at the garage sale, and the battery isn’t toast.

I’ve used a folding 100 watt panel occassionally on my RV with a separate charge controller. Big thing I found out that orientation to the sun is a BIG deal with these panels. A little change in angle affects the output quite a bit.

In full sun, with the panel oriented right, I can see 6 amps of charging. Lay it flat on the ground, and it goes down to 3 amps.

It doesn’t matter if your panel has it’s own charge controller, your box is just rated to handle that wide range of voltages, just in case.

I’ve seen that posted before, but it goes against current wisdom. In the RV world, people running lithiums always have their batteries topped off. Reason being, they want full power when they go off grid.

In a case of a “solar generator”, you want it fully charged and ready for a potential power outage, so you want it topped off. It would be pretty sucky to keep the batteries at 50%, then need full power when the lights go out.

Sure, keeping them close to topped off might shorten their lifespan a little, but the whole point of having them, is for full power when you need it.

Decisions, decisions…

1 Like

I have a spare car battery from a car I replaced the battery but the old battery was actually fine (Oops). So, I went and bought an inverter from Harbor Freight. Just a 400/800 Watt output. I use that combo to run the Fios ONT, phones and network when the power goes out.

Got a great deal. The chassis is in near perfect condition, it was well taken care of, used at a trade show booth a couple times, so I heard. The guy asked $25, so I gave $25. It cost $525.00(ish) new. I can’t say I stole it cuz I gave what he asked, but I stole it. Won’t find another deal like that. I have already tested charging and discharging and signal quality with a meter, everything is A-Okay.

When the battery is at 100% and then being used (discharging) the full charge does not affect lifespan much. So the continuous charge discharge cycle is normal. It’s only when at 100% and stewing in it’s own electrons for 6 months or more that it can diminish capacity. ANd, it does not happen all at once, it is a cumulative effect, like hearing loss.

I did something similar to that. I have a multi-battery bank with deep cycle batteries and a either 1200 or 1500 watt sinewave inverter. This configuration I use during power outages, to run low power draw items, like lights, laptop, flat screen, charge phones, etc., instead of having to run the gererator the whole time.

I just fire up the genny to get the fridges and freezer back to cold. When the genny is running, I also recharge the battery bank. So, when the fridges are back to normal, turn off the genny and back to the battery bank.

Using this method, decreases the need for running the genny full time, and even better, saves on fuel needed for the genny.

When the battery is at 100% and then being used (discharging) the full charge does not affect lifespan much. So the continuous charge discharge cycle is normal. It’s only when at 100% and stewing in it’s own electrons for 6 months or more that it can diminish capacity. ANd, it does not happen all at once, it is a cumulative effect, like hearing loss.

This is not really correct. Basically there is only one degradation mechanism that matters in lithium ion batteries, and that is lithium dendrite growth. You will see this sometimes referred to as anode plating.

The reason they tell you to not charge to 100% - That last 20% requires a lot more effort to squeeze the electricity into the cell. This causes heat. Heat accelerates dendrite growth. Depending on how smart the battery/charge controller is, it may control charge to minimize temps, and that can jsut mean the 80-100% charge is just god awful slow instead of particularly damaging.

The reason they tell you to not discharge below 20% is because you are entering the realm where current draw may be hard for the battery to keep up with and this causes heat. Heat accelerates dendrite growth. Additionally, the less charge the cell has, the easier it is to shove in electricity. The junkier the charge controller, the more likely this is to not optimize the charge curve for heat. Heat accelerates dendrite growth. So in something like an EV, they tell you to avoid it because your potential draw is very high and the car will either let you do it, or seriously alter it’s performance to stop you form doing it. Something where the controller doesn’t control for temps, it’ll just let it get hot and that will shorten battery life. Things like EVs and current (at least mid tier+) smart phones are smart about this. Everything else is much more variable.

The reason they tell you to store it between 40-70% charge is because that’s the range where the self discharge curve slows down. It means you get the best compromise of state of charge when you need it and minimal battery life consumed with basic self discharge. All charging and discharging, even if not overheating, causes dendrite growth. It’s just slower under less abusive use cases. This recommendation is largely there if you want the largest portion of the batteries lifespan to go towards actual useful work for you.

So those dendrites do two things. They take lithium out of the charge/discharge cycle reducing battery capacity and maximum output ability. Additionally, they can eventually short out the cell and pose a fire risk especially if they grow rapidly. Trying to make 80-100% charge go quickly generally creates the environment for more rapid dendrite growth.

Solid state lithium batteries reduce or avoid these risks. There are a couple solid state battery packs out there, and it’s safe to assume we’ll be seeing even more.

Additionally, if you are using it regularly and recharging it leisurely, charging to 100% is not going to be too problematic. Something like RV use where you are driving 6-8 hours a day and not draining it to zero while parked overnight is probably not going to be pushing the pack that hard and your actual use curve will outpace the self discharge curve. IN that case, yes you are using up the lifespan of the battery, but you are using it for the stuff you bought it for. The store it at 60% rule would come into play when you have it parked unused between road trips.